The Ultimate Guide to Sunscreen: Chemical vs Physical

While we're thrilled that skincare has become so popular these days, we wish we had known more about sun protection in our teens and early twenties. Growing up in an era where tanning beds and lathering baby oil were the norm, we spent countless hours in the sun with little regard for the consequences.

Unfortunately, this love affair with tanning beds and long beach days without sunblock led to premature aging, age spots, and hyperpigmentation. That's why we're passionate about educating you through this blog to help you avoid making the same mistakes.

Choosing the Right Sunscreen: What You Need to Know

There is so much debate and misinformation about sunscreens. There are strong advocates for both physical and chemical sunscreens, and we want to provide you with all the information you need to make your own informed decision. Choosing sunscreen can be very confusing due to the abundance of misinformation. Since sunscreen is the most powerful anti-aging product for the skin, this is one product you don't want to get wrong.

Chemical vs. Physical Sunscreen: What’s the Difference?

The biggest difference between chemical and physical sunscreens is the level of protection. While SPF 50+ is common for both types, broad-spectrum protection, particularly against longer wavelengths of UVA, varies significantly.

Most newer chemical sunscreens (also known as organic sunscreens) provide higher, photostable protection from UVA rays, which makes them a better option against hyperpigmentation and aging. A common ingredient, avobenzone, offers excellent UVA protection but degrades in sunlight, necessitating diligent reapplication. Some formulas stabilize avobenzone to slow its breakdown, but frequent reapplication is still crucial when spending extended periods in the sun.

What is Physical Sunscreen?

iS Clinical Extreme Protect 40 -- $85.00

Physical sunscreen, such as iS Clinical Extreme Protect 40, contains active mineral ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, also known as inorganic sunscreen ingredients. Despite popular belief, they also absorb UV rays and convert them into heat, just like chemical sunscreens. However, inorganic sunscreens, or physical sunscreens, also scatter and reflect about 5-10% of the incoming UV rays.

Benefits of Physical Sunscreen

Physical sunscreens offer broad-spectrum protection, shielding against both UVA and UVB rays. They provide immediate protection upon application and tend to last longer under direct UV light compared to chemical sunscreens. Physical sunscreens are generally less likely to cause irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin, and are better for those with heat-activated skin conditions like rosacea.

However, physical sunscreens can rub, sweat, or rinse off easily. They may leave a white cast, particularly on darker skin tones, though tinted formulas are available to address this issue. Additionally, physical sunscreens can be thicker, which makes people less inclined to apply them regularly, and harder to apply evenly, potentially leading to gaps in coverage.

What is Chemical Sunscreen?

Circadia Light Day Suncreen SPF 37 -- $55.00

Chemical sunscreen contains organic compounds like oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and avobenzone. These compounds absorb UV rays, convert them into heat, and release the heat from the skin, which is why they are often referred to as chemical or organic absorbers.

Benefits of Chemical Sunscreen

Chemical sunscreens, like Circadia’s Light Day Sunscreen (SPF 37) tend to be thinner and more wearable for daily use, especially under makeup. Lots of them can be used as a moisturizer during the day time. They spread easily and uniformly, ensuring even coverage. Additionally, they can include other skin-benefiting ingredients like peptides and antioxidants. They provide better UVA (aging rays) protection. 

Avobenzone is a common irritant and allergen, so it tends to be unsuitable for very sensitive skin, Chemical sunscreens also need frequent reapplication. 

Hybrid Sunscreen

In recent years, a third option has gained popularity: hybrid sunscreens, like iS Clinical Extreme Protect 30 which harness the benefits of both physical and chemical sunscreens. By blending mineral and chemical sunscreen compounds, hybrid sunscreens provide broad-spectrum protection while being gentle on the skin.

Hybrid sunscreens are lighter than physical sunscreens but not as light as chemical sunscreens. They offer a balanced approach, combining the strengths of both types. Unlike some physical sunscreens that can feel heavy and leave a white cast, hybrid sunscreens blend seamlessly into the skin, leaving minimal residue. This makes them ideal for everyday use, as they can be worn under makeup without any issues.

How Much Sunscreen Should I Apply?

iS Clinical Extreme Protect 30 -- $80.00

To get the SPF on the label, you need to apply 2 mg per square centimeter. For most people, this works out around ¼ teaspoon for your face alone. Since it depends on your face size, the actual amount will be different for everyone. You can try to measure your face, but it’s a bit of effort, so if in doubt, aim for ¼ teaspoon. You might’ve heard of using 2 fingers of sunscreen. Obviously, the amount depends a lot on how thick your lines are, so if you’re not sure, try scraping your lines into a ¼ teaspoon measure.

Additionally, SPF numbers above 50 are more about marketing than efficacy. The FDA recommends using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 to 50. Reapply every two hours and after swimming or heavy sweating.

Face vs. Body Protection

When choosing sunscreens, consider using different products for your face and body. Facial sunscreens are often formulated to be lighter and less greasy, while body sunscreens may offer more robust coverage. Use a waterproof sunscreen with at least SPF 30 or higher and remember to reapply every two hours.

Don’t forget to apply sunscreen to your décolleté daily, not just on beach days. This area, while technically part of the body, is an extension of your face and needs extra care, especially during the summer.

Other Ways to Protect Your Skin from the Sun

Sunscreen is crucial, but it's not the only measure you should take for sun protection. Wearing protective clothing, hats, and sunglasses, seeking shade, and avoiding direct sun exposure during peak UV hours are essential. Adding UVA-protective tints to windows at home and in your car can also help reduce UV exposure.

Do I Need to Wear a Separate SPF if I Have SPF in My Makeup?

Yes, you do. With any makeup product, you won’t apply anywhere near the recommended ¼ teaspoon, as it would make your makeup look cakey. This means you’re not getting the proper protection for your skin. It's best to apply a separate sunscreen, wait until it dries or adheres to the skin (about 6-8 minutes), and then apply your makeup with SPF. This way, you ensure you are fully protected.

The Verdict on Sunscreen: Physical vs. Chemical

Both physical and chemical sunscreens have their pros and cons. The best sunscreen is the one you'll use consistently every day. For oilier skin types, look for a lightweight formula. For sensitive skin, choose a sunscreen that doesn’t cause redness or irritation. If you have clogged pores, find a non-comedogenic formula. And for deeper skin tones, choose a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white cast.

Remember, sunscreen is the number one anti-aging product, so it’s worth finding one that you'll wear daily, rain or shine. There are many different formulations, so please don't give up looking for the one your skin really likes—you will find it! You will thank us for this advice in 20 years. ☺